Taking risks on Tioman

TIoman Island is located off the east coast of Malaysia. Brought to notoriety in the 1950s by the movie South Pacific, you know scene, the one where a couple rolls around on the beach making out, it has been a tourist destination ever since. Sail Malaysia is heading up the west coast of Malaysia, so Tioman was not on our lists of stops, but after reading about Tioman in Lonley Planet I was really keen on checking it out, the only problem was that it is the beginning of monsoon season in Tioman and really not tourist season at all. Omar and Allison decided it wasn't worth the weather risk and decided not to go but Rhiannon was hoping monsoon season might bring surf-able waves and was actually looking to sell her surfboard as well. Clemont had already headed that direction and was planning on meeting us there.

Rhiannon and I hopped a bus in Singapore and headed back to the boat in Danga Bay to grab her surfboard and we were off. We were able to catch a bus to Mersing that night, a nice little town where the ferry to Tioman launched from, and at noon the next day we were on the quick ferry to Tioman. Clemont met us on the jetty and took us to the resort where he had negotiated renting a tent and sleeping on the resort’s lawn.

The next five days were bliss.

Tioman it appeared had settled in for an off season nap. A lot of the resorts had already closed their doors for monsoon season and those that were still open had a skeleton crew and minimal guests. The perfect white sand beaches were ours.

We spent time in four of the villages on Tioman; in Genting where we arrived by ferry we watched the local school girls play a game of net ball. In Paya we made an unscheduled stop on our trek to Juara because the beaches were so beautiful and so quiet. We spent the day swimming and reading under palm trees. That night we camped on a small island just off the coast, not taking into account just how high high-tide would be. Next we completed our trek across the island, some 9 kilometers, the first 5 of which were straight up, to arrive in Juara where I think I could spend the rest of my life. It was a perfect half moon bay hardly a mile long with white sand and the bluest of water. I’m not sure if this is where that famous South Pacific scene was filmed but I have to imagine it was. Juara is also where we found a surf school and band of surfing pirates, well not real pirates. And Rhiannon was able to sell her surf board as well, which was good because no one wanted to carry it back through the jungle. Finally we spent the night in Tekek, sleeping on the beach under trees full of bats (I would not recommend this to anyone) before jumping back on the ferry and making our way back to the Tropicbird.

Something about Tioman drew me in, maybe the beauty, maybe the simple sleepiness, maybe the wholesome way of life. Whatever it is I really hope to make it back there soon.

And the weather was perfect the whole time.

Genting beach at sunset.

Paya beach.

A view of Juara from the jetty.

Juara beach huts and surfer pirate friends.

 Jungle treking to Tekek.

Opposite end of the spectrum

Upon leaving Indonesia we arrived in Danga Bay Marina, which is near Johor Bahru Malaysia, at the very south end of the country. Sail Malaysia doesn't officially start until November 9th, or 12th or 16th... typical of South East Asian schedules. So in the meantime we decided to take advantage of the lull in sailing and explore.

Traffic on our way into Danga Bay.

We spent a day exploring Johor Bahru or JB as the locals call it. It is a modern city full of shopping malls and the likes. You can find everything you "need" including McDonalds and Starbucks. Thankfully we didn't spend too terribly long of a time in the malls and took the time to get lost on the streets. We found a nice little cafe for dinner before returning to Danga Bay for the night.

Welcome to Malaysia!

 Johor Bahru highlights including an awesome container tea shop and our dinner cafe.

Only a short bus ride from Johor Bahru and easy customs clearance a shining city of the future awaited. In all honesty I wasn't to excited about Singapore. I prefer the open spaces of the world and was expecting Singapore to be a big, dirty city. Indeed it was a big city but far from dirty and we stumbled on some really cool neighborhoods and met some great expats who made us feel welcome and showed us a great time. I think if I ever have to return to the real world and work again I would put Singapore on my list of potential cities to live in..

We spent four nights in Singapore in the Little India neighborhood. It was Deepavali, the Indian festival of lights, so the streets were never quiet but we ventured all over the island during the day, utilizing their state of the art subway system. Its an incredibly clean and modern city. Such a change from where we've been in Indonesia.

Omar and Rhiannon relax in our hostel.

Buying flowers for Deepavali.

Singapore had some incredibly modern architecture which is guarded by the Merlion in the Marina by the Bay.

Haji Lane, a trendy alley we stumbled into while exploring one night. Probably my favorite part of Singapore

In the Raffles Hotel.

Har Paw Villa, a cultural museum built by the Tiger Balm moguls in the 1930s as a gift to the people of Singapore. The Ten Courts of Hell was definitely the highlight to this bizarre little theme park.

 

Out the Indonesian door, in the Malaysian window

We ended the Sail Indonesia rally at Nirwana Beach Resort on Bintan Island. Really though we were already in another world. Gone were the remote villages and friendly faces, replaced by sprawling swimming pools and and wealthy tourists from Singapore.

Our time at Nirwana was a treat however. Lounging by the pool, unlimited freshwater showers, bowling and pizza were all a welcome change. The closing ceremony dinner, a visit to see elephants and spending hours on the slack line with our new crew member Clement were the highlights as we recharged our engines before setting off for the start of Sail Malaysia.

Rolling out the red carpet in Bangka

I’m probably never going to be famous. 

The Paparazzi will most likely never clamor for a photo of me buying an iced mocha latte whilst in my pajamas. And I’m glad. I’m glad because I now know what it’s like to be adored and it’s not an easy job.

Our next stop after Belitung was Batu Beriga in Bangka, an unassuming little town that really doesn't have much going for it. The beach is okay, the water grimy, there aren't any UNESCO sites nearby, no endangered wildlife, no snorkeling to be done. Really there is nothing of note and it’s a bit ugly by Indonesian standards. Tin mining, while profitable for the locals, has ruined a lot of the area surrounding Batu Beriga  Land stripped bare of its brush and top soil now lays barren. If I were writing a guide book to Indonesia, Batu Beriga wouldn't warrant a mention. But I think of all the stops in Indonesia, our stop in Bangka will remain in my memory the longest.

We dropped anchor off the coast and hopped in the dingy to head ashore for lunch with the other cruisers at the local governor’s house. As soon as we stepped foot ashore we were mobbed by local children greeting us with “Hello mister”, clambering to shake our hands. Their parents handing over babies to be held while photos were snapped with cell phones. The mob followed us all the way to the governor’s house where we made our escape and enjoyed a nice lunch of local dishes, mostly fish based.

After lunch we inquired about finding a room to rent for the duration of our stay. There were no options. Like I mentioned before there isn't much to Banka, so we were surprised when one of the translators told us he had found rooms for us. Two local families had offered bedrooms in their homes to us. They insisted we stay, without paying a cent. So there we were, guests in their homes. They did our laundry, cooked us three meals a day, constantly offered us use of their showers (apparently we looked awful sweaty all the time), even a couple of the translators slept on the floor at night just in case we needed anything. They asked nothing in return except for our obliging them with photos, which was the least we could do. I’m quite sure they invited all their friends and family to stop by for photos as well, but their hospitality was unlike anything I have ever experienced, especially when you consider by Western standards they didn't have a lot to give. They had no issue giving it all.

There was one tour booked during our stay, a jaunt to see a nearby Banyan forest and have lunch. The next day we hopped on a bus, with our police escort naturally leading the way and headed to the forest. The forest itself wasn't much to see, but we did get to sample honey from a honeycomb taken out of a tree right before our eyes. It was amazing, excluding the few bees that were irritated by being smoked out of their homes and in turn lashed out at a couple of the cruisers. Omar took the worst with a stinger to the nose. Honey was followed by lunch in a scenic rice patty and then we returned to Batu Beriga for two night of a talent contest of sorts featuring local musical groups.

And lots of photos. I mean a lot a lot.

Things would get to the point where local security forces would have to move the locals away so that we could enjoy the talent show. The locals would subside for a bit and linger a while until they found another opportunity thrust babies upon us for another round of photos. This really continued for two days, almost nonstop. The only real reprieve was during evening prayers.

On our final day in Batu Beriga a mass wedding was held. It is an economical way for the less well to do families to afford the costs of a ceremony. I believe there were something like eighteen brides, which seems like a nightmare. Following the wedding police escorts were required for the cruisers down to the beach and their dinghies, where I would estimate no less than 500 people were gathered in hopes of capturing another photo and sending us off. There were even local boats running people out in the bay to see the sail boats and catch a glimpse of us aboard. It was crazy. It was flattering. It was exhausting. But overall an amazing experience that I will eternally be grateful for and will never forget. 

Swarmed by children as we came ashore

    

  Tour day

 

 

  

  

Photos from the music contest

 

Wedding day preparations

  A parting gift from our hosts