Wednesday, 30 October 2013

Rolling out the red carpet in Bangka

I’m probably never going to be famous. 

The Paparazzi will most likely never clamor for a photo of me buying an iced mocha latte whilst in my pajamas. And I’m glad. I’m glad because I now know what it’s like to be adored and it’s not an easy job.

Our next stop after Belitung was Batu Beriga in Bangka, an unassuming little town that really doesn't have much going for it. The beach is okay, the water grimy, there aren't any UNESCO sites nearby, no endangered wildlife, no snorkeling to be done. Really there is nothing of note and it’s a bit ugly by Indonesian standards. Tin mining, while profitable for the locals, has ruined a lot of the area surrounding Batu Beriga  Land stripped bare of its brush and top soil now lays barren. If I were writing a guide book to Indonesia, Batu Beriga wouldn't warrant a mention. But I think of all the stops in Indonesia, our stop in Bangka will remain in my memory the longest.

We dropped anchor off the coast and hopped in the dingy to head ashore for lunch with the other cruisers at the local governor’s house. As soon as we stepped foot ashore we were mobbed by local children greeting us with “Hello mister”, clambering to shake our hands. Their parents handing over babies to be held while photos were snapped with cell phones. The mob followed us all the way to the governor’s house where we made our escape and enjoyed a nice lunch of local dishes, mostly fish based.

After lunch we inquired about finding a room to rent for the duration of our stay. There were no options. Like I mentioned before there isn't much to Banka, so we were surprised when one of the translators told us he had found rooms for us. Two local families had offered bedrooms in their homes to us. They insisted we stay, without paying a cent. So there we were, guests in their homes. They did our laundry, cooked us three meals a day, constantly offered us use of their showers (apparently we looked awful sweaty all the time), even a couple of the translators slept on the floor at night just in case we needed anything. They asked nothing in return except for our obliging them with photos, which was the least we could do. I’m quite sure they invited all their friends and family to stop by for photos as well, but their hospitality was unlike anything I have ever experienced, especially when you consider by Western standards they didn't have a lot to give. They had no issue giving it all.

There was one tour booked during our stay, a jaunt to see a nearby Banyan forest and have lunch. The next day we hopped on a bus, with our police escort naturally leading the way and headed to the forest. The forest itself wasn't much to see, but we did get to sample honey from a honeycomb taken out of a tree right before our eyes. It was amazing, excluding the few bees that were irritated by being smoked out of their homes and in turn lashed out at a couple of the cruisers. Omar took the worst with a stinger to the nose. Honey was followed by lunch in a scenic rice patty and then we returned to Batu Beriga for two night of a talent contest of sorts featuring local musical groups.

And lots of photos. I mean a lot a lot.

Things would get to the point where local security forces would have to move the locals away so that we could enjoy the talent show. The locals would subside for a bit and linger a while until they found another opportunity thrust babies upon us for another round of photos. This really continued for two days, almost nonstop. The only real reprieve was during evening prayers.


On our final day in Batu Beriga a mass wedding was held. It is an economical way for the less well to do families to afford the costs of a ceremony. I believe there were something like eighteen brides, which seems like a nightmare. Following the wedding police escorts were required for the cruisers down to the beach and their dinghies, where I would estimate no less than 500 people were gathered in hopes of capturing another photo and sending us off. There were even local boats running people out in the bay to see the sail boats and catch a glimpse of us aboard. It was crazy. It was flattering. It was exhausting. But overall an amazing experience that I will eternally be grateful for and will never forget. 

Swarmed by children as we came ashore

    
  Tour day

 
 
  
  
Photos from the music contest

 
Wedding day preparations

  A parting gift from our hosts




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